#3 Creative Photo Exercises - Nathan Nguyen

1. Create a photograph that is properly exposed using Manual Exposure Mode.

Correctly Exposed

Underexposed

Overexposed

2. Create a properly exposed image now using the AV or A or Aperture Exposure mode.

3. Create a properly exposed image now using the TV or S or Shutter Speed Exposure mode.

4. Different WB settings

Correct WB

Cold WB

Warm WB

5. Shoot a subject inside with the correct WB. Be sure it is properly exposed.

6. Shoot a subject outside with the correct WB. Be sure it is properly exposed.

7. Photograph a subject inside where the light is not so bright, therefore forcing you to use a shutter speed below 1/30 of a second. Be sure it is still a proper exposure.

    

8. Different ISO settings

9. Find a subject that is backlit (a person in front of a window.) Using the internal meter photograph the subject with the proper exposure. Now switch your camera to spot meter, adjust the settings accordingly and retake the image again.

10. The depth of field is much narrower if you are close to a subject than if you are farther away. One way to demonstrate this:

• Stand 3-4 feet from a partner. Have the partner point his/her finger at the lens. Focus on the fingertip and take the picture.
• Stand 20 feet from the partner and take the same picture, again focusing on the fingertip.
• Be sure to have a proper exposure

11. Depth of field is wider if you use a smaller aperture (larger f/stop number). One way to show this:

• Outdoors, photograph a person about 10 feet away, with “stuff” at various distances in the background. Set your aperture to a large opening (e.g. F/4) and use the meter to determine the shutter speed.
• Re-photograph the scene using a small aperture (e.g. F/16) and changing the shutter speed to get a reciprocal exposure.

F8

F16

12. Your meter will underexpose a scene if you point your camera at a mostly bright sky. One way to show this:

• On a sunny day, photograph a landscape image, including about 3/4 sky. Use the meter’s recommended settings.
• Then include only about 1/4 sky. Again use the meter’s recommended settings (which should be different)

13. A light-toned scene will tend to be underexposed and look gray, if you trust your meter, but be properly exposed if you add one or two extra stops of light.

• Set up a very “white” scene (e.g. eggs on a white blanket, friend in a white tee-shirt against a white wall. Photograph using the meter’s recommended settings.
• Re-photograph the same scene only now, overexpose by +1 stop and then +2 stops (e.g. slow down the shutter speed or increase the aperture)
• Now photograph the scene again with settings that underexpose by -1 stop and then -2 stops (e.g. increase the shutter speed or decrease the aperture.)

14. A dark-toned scene (not the same as a darkly lit scene!) will tend to be overexposed (and look gray) if you trust the meter’s settings. A way to demonstrate this:

• Set up a very dark scene (e.g. a black jacket against a dark blue wall or a friend wearing dark clothes against a dark wooden wall. Photograph the scene according to the meter’s recommendations.
• Re-photograph the same scene only now, overexpose by +1 stop and then +2 stops (e.g. slow down the shutter speed or increase the aperture.)
• Now photograph the scene again with settings that underexpose by -1 stop and then -2 stops (e.g. increase the shutter speed or decrease the aperture.)

15. A slower shutter speed will tend to show blurred movement, while a fast shutter speed will tend to freeze movement. A way to show this:

• A. Choose a moving subject that is about 5-10 feet away. Choosing a slower shutter speed (e.g.1/15 or 1/30 second) and use the meter to set the aperture for a good exposed photograph.
• Re-photograph the same subject using a fast shutter speed (e.g. 1/250 or 1/500 second) and choose an aperture to get a reciprocal exposure. You should try multiple examples of these just so you have a better feel for the camera and it’s settings.